There’s no doubt that chains have dominated the fashion world with their renowned versatility and simplicity. Chains are defined as a series of metal links that are attached to each other. Chains have had various uses in the past, with them becoming more and more popular in the fashion world. Read on as we uncover the history of chain jewellery and how they’ve evolved to become the accessories we all know and love today.
Table of Contents
History of Chain Jewellery
Ancient Egypt
Chains were first designed and created by the ancient Egyptians, with the chain’s origins dating back to 2500 BC. In fact, chain jewellery was found in the remnants of Ancient Egypt, as found in tombs of kings and queens. The ancient Egyptians threaded links of gold and silver, as they also hammered out sheets of gold and rolled them into wire. The elaborate gold chains of the Pharaohs were often adorned with precious gemstones like carnelian, lapis lazuli and turquoise. They also held symbolic meanings associated with the gods and the afterlife.
Ancient Mesopotamia
Chains were not only evident in ancient Egypt; in ancient Mesopotamia, many chains were found in Queen Puabi’s tomb among other treasures. Lots of the chains in the tomb were often embellished with carnelian beads. Queen Puabi’s chains were variations of the perennial loop-in-loop, which eventually circulated throughout the Mediterranean and Western Asia.
Ancient Celts
Silver chains with fascinating links were also found to be crafted from the ancient Celts. In fact, ancient Celts had a strong symbolism associated with links and knots, including the Triquetra, the Dara Knot, and the Celtic Motherhood Knot.
The Renaissance Period
As civilisations evolved and with the rise of globalism, chain jewellery went through various phases of evolution to reflect cultural influences. The Byzantine Empire introduced intricate chain craftsmanship, and during the Renaissance period, chains with symbolic charms gained popularity due to their rumored offerings of protection and luck. Henry VIII, former King of England (1509-1547), presented heavy gold chains as signs of favour but kept the best of the chains for himself. These early chain designs would define the modern chain jewellery we all know and love today.
The Evolution of Modern Chain Trends
The Art Nouveau movement (1890-1910) introduced artistic expression over traditional luxury, impacting the way chains were designed and crafted. The Art Deco period (1920s -1930s) also influenced chain craftsmanship, with jewellers leaning more towards geometric patterns and bold colours. In the 1920s, the flapper era introduced art deco chain pieces, and eventually, the 1950s saw the emergence of classic and elegant chain bracelets. There’s no doubt that pop culture has influenced the craftsmanship of chain jewellery. The influence of hip-hop artists in the 1980s and 1990s introduced oversized gold chain necklaces and diamond chains. Today, social media influencers have leaned towards the minimal style, flaunting dainty chains.
Modern Chain Styles & Their Historical Backstories
In the fashion world, we are now exposed to a wide selection of chain designs. Many of these designs derived from specific uses and purposes of chains. Read on as we guide you through some popular modern chain designs and their brief historical backstories.
Anchor Chain
The anchor chain is characterised by interlocking oval or round links. The anchor chain design, as the name suggests, can be traced back to sailors in the 18th century who crafted jewellery from discarded bits of anchor chains.
Ball/Bead Chain
The ball/bead chain is crafted with small spherical beads, often used for dog tags. The ball chain first appeared at the end of the 19th century and were originally used in industrial fields such as mining equipment and mechanical transmission.
Belcher Chain
Belcher chains are recognised for their D-shaped links which alternate to produce a loop. There are various theories surrounding the history of the belcher chain. Some suggest that the belcher chain originated in the 18th century, while others believe that it was conceived in 19th century Britain. The simplest theory known is that the name and design derived from belcher scarves and rings popular during the period. A popular theory is that the chain was named after the English goldsmith Thomas Belcher, who popularised this style of chain.
Box Chain
A box chain consists of square links with four sides joined together in a flexible yet sturdy attachment. The links may have a hollow or solid filled construction; however, this depends on the design. Box chains are known to have existed in ancient Egypt and were employed as a decorative jewellery piece. The box chain was also renowned during the Roman Empire, where it was known as the “box link” chain.
Figaro Chain
The figaro chain is characterised by a pattern of three small circular links followed by one longer and larger oval link. The figaro chain originated in Italy and was named after Mozart’s opera “The Marriage of Figaro”. The figaro chain design was popular in 18th century Italy.
Paperclip Chain
The paperclip chain is a popular chain design known for its simple paper clip-like links. With many reinventions of the paperclip from the 1800s to the 1900s, the design of the chain can vary. However, the most popular paperclip design is based on Norwegian inventor John Vaaler’s invention of the paperclip in 1899.
Rope Chain
Rope chains are beloved in the fashion industry for their distinctive twisted design. The origins of rope chains can be traced to ancient civilizations, with the concept of the rope chain design believed to have emerged from ancient Egypt. It was theorised that the ancient Egyptians twisted metal wires and weaved them together to form adornments. Rope chains evolved in the Roman Empire, being adorned with gemstones to symbolise wealth and status.
Wear a Chain with Symbolism and Historic Meaning at Shiels
At Shiels, we offer a wide selection of chains with fascinating historical backgrounds. From traditional rope chains to modern plays on paper clip chains, you can find the perfect chain for you or a loved one. The impressive evolution of chains as jewellery means that you can choose from a wide selection of designs, colours and styles. Chains can be worn by anyone, regardless of gender, age and lifestyle. Explore Shiels’ proud range of men's chains, women's chains, and unisex chains today, all crafted with a historical backstory to cherish.
