Diamond Clarity Guide
Diamonds are known for their unparalleled beauty and value, making them one of the most sought-after gemstones in the world. Diamonds come in a wide variety of colours, with other features that define the diamond's quality. Therefore it is important to pay attention to the characteristics of a diamond. Whether you are shopping for a diamond ring or the perfect addition to a fine jewellery collection, the clarity of a diamond determines its quality.
In the 1940s Robert Shipley, founder of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) defined metrics to help students remember the characteristics of a faceted diamond: cut, colour, carat and clarity.
The biggest selling point of diamond jewellery and diamonds, in general, is the way it sparkles. It’s often the first thing that people comment on when you display your new jewellery. This is why when looking for diamond engagement rings, diamond bracelets or any other kind of diamond accessory you should understand diamond clarity and what diamond clarity grading to choose for a particular piece.
OVERVIEW:
- What Is Diamond Clarity?
- How Is A Diamond's Clarity Graded?
- Diamond Clarity Gradings
- What Are Diamond Inclusions?
- How Important Is A Diamond's Clarity?
WHAT IS DIAMOND CLARITY?
Diamond clarity assesses how light passes through the diamond when viewed under a microscope at 10x magnification. The diamond clarity grade measures whether the light is blocked or bent by imperfections within (inclusions) or on the outside (blemishes) of the stone.
A diamond with a flawless clarity grade has no inclusions or blemishes visible within the stone under 10x magnification.
Natural diamonds form when carbon is put under immense pressure and heat deep inside the earth. This process can result in internal features called ‘inclusions’ and external characteristics called ‘blemishes’ in the stone.
Diamond clarity is measured using six categories defined by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), divided further into 11 specific grades.
HOW IS A DIAMOND'S CLARITY GRADED?
To give a diamond a clarity grade, a trained gemologist will first access the characteristics of each stone under a microscope to establish what grade that particular diamond is. Once the gemologist has made a call on which category they believe the stone falls under, they may or may not decide to give a further evaluation to determine what subgrade that diamond should be given if that is applicable.
Each diamond clarity grade has a predetermined set of requirements that a stone must meet to make that particular grade. The diamond grade is recorded in official documentation so that when the diamond stone or stones are set into jewellery, the diamond clarity certification accompanies the ring, earring, pendant or other piece.
WHAT IS THE BEST DIAMOND CLARITY GRADE?
There isn't necessarily a "best" diamond clarity grading as it largely depends on personal preferences and budget. Diamond clarity refers to the degree to which a diamond is free from internal and external imperfections, known as inclusions and blemishes. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) uses a clarity grading scale that ranges from Flawless (FL) to Included (I3). Flawless diamonds are the rarest and most expensive as they have no inclusions or blemishes visible under 10x magnification. However, diamonds with slightly lower clarity grades, such as VVS1, VVS2, VS1, and VS2, are also considered high-quality and can be more affordable. Ultimately, the choice of diamond clarity grading depends on individual preferences and the budget available for the purchase. While some people may prefer a diamond with slight inclusions, such as those graded as VVS1 or VVS2, others may prefer the absolute clarity of a flawless diamond. Ultimately, the choice of diamond clarity is down to what qualities you prefer in a diamond and how much you want it to sparkle. However, it's worth noting that flawless diamonds are the pinnacle of diamond clarity and are considered the most valuable and desirable.
FL/IF: 'Flawless' or 'Internally Flawless' diamonds are essentially any stone that has no noticeable inclusions that can be seen by the naked eye and under 10x magnification. Flawless and Internally Flawless is not only the highest rating a diamond can be given, but they are sometimes the standard for many higher-end diamond and jewellery brands out there, however, this comes with a price. Not surprisingly, diamonds that have been given a Flawless or Internally Flawless rating are extremely rare and very expensive due to their fiery brilliance which is perfectly symmetrical. Some Internally Flawless and Flawless diamonds will even come with official documentation from the Gemological Institute that provides proof of their highly-prized certification which is a huge drawcard for those who put emphasise a stone's clarity when buying jewellery. The sparkle on a Flawless diamond is so spectacular that you will often see them sent onto singular diamond pendants and diamond solitaire engagement rings in order to show it off.
The Diamond Clarity Scale: Flawless to Included
The GIA determines the diamond clarity grading scale. This standardised scale ensures that jewellers worldwide use the same scale and language when discussing stones, providing comparison and certainty for potential buyers.
Flawless diamonds (FL)
Flawless diamonds are the rarest and most expensive as they have no inclusions or blemishes visible under 10x magnification.
Internally Flawless (IF)
Internally flawless diamonds contain no inclusions visible under 10x magnification. These diamonds may contain surface blemishes.
Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2)
Inclusions in this grade are so slight they are difficult for an experienced gemologist to see under 10x magnification.
Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2)
Inclusions, characterised as minor, are observed with effort under 10x magnification
Slightly Included
Inclusions are noticeable under 10x magnification
Included (I1, I2, I3)
Inclusions are visible under 10x magnification. Inclusions may affect the transparency and brilliance of the diamond.
Choosing a diamond clarity grade for a solitaire piece
Internally Flawless (IF) and Flawless (FL) diamonds may carry official documentation from the Gemological Institute that provides proof of their clarity grade, providing evidence of the endorsed quality of the diamond.
The sparkle of a Flawless diamond is so spectacular that you will find them set in singular diamond pendants and princess-cut diamond engagement rings for maximum appreciation of the stunning stone.
It is worth noting that many inclusions and blemishes are too tiny to be seen without a microscope. While there is a big difference in overall quality between a Very Slightly Included diamond and a Slightly Included diamond, without magnification under a microscope, the diamonds may look very similar.
Choosing a diamond that looks clear and clean to the naked eye is our recommendation for purchasing diamonds. When purchasing an extra-special occasion piece, you may decide to select a certified diamond.
DIAMOND BLEMISHES AND INCLUSIONS EXPLAINED
Diamonds may have structural imperfections caused during the formation process. Diamonds are created when carbon within the earth’s crust is subject to extreme heat and pressure. Inclusions occur when irregular crystals form within the diamond stone during formation, or when foreign (non-carbon) material is found within the stone. Blemishes are flaws at the surface of the diamond.
The size, position and visibility of inclusions can impact the overall clarity grade.
Diamonds may have varying levels of inclusions, with some that you can see with your naked eye while others are very difficult to spot, even with magnification. Inclusions can form in mined natural diamonds, treated diamonds and lab-grown diamonds alike.
Lab-grown diamonds may have higher clarity as these diamonds can be formed under highly controlled conditions.
The potentially higher clarity of lab-grown diamond engagement rings has led to a boom in popularity amongst celebrities and savvy buyers.
TYPES OF DIAMOND INCLUSIONS THAT AFFECT CLARITY
The most common inclusion types are needle and pinpoint inclusions, diamond cavities, feather inclusions, bearding and graining and cloud inclusions.
- Needle & Pinpoint Inclusions
Needle and pinpoint inclusions are imperfections that occur as the crystal structure develops. Defined by their tiny black or white flecks, dots and fine lines, needle and pinpoint inclusions are thought to resemble a small puncture mark, hence their name.
Gemologists come across the varying needle and pinpoint inclusions in an array of diamond clarity levels from very, very slightly included stones (VVS1) to slightly included ones (SI2). Because of their size, needle and pinpoint inclusions are often difficult to spot and are often hidden by the diamond’s facets.
- Diamond Cavities
Diamond cavities indicate the presence of a hole or crack, which occurs after the diamond has been mined. Cavities occur during the polishing process when a gemologist is cutting the diamond into a shape and an internal inclusion is breached or dislodged from the stone. This results in an opening on the diamond’s surface that resembles a cut, chip or hole. Fortunately, these inclusions are colourless and not glaringly obvious, except when it is a coloured stone.
- Feather Inclusions
Feather inclusions are small cracks or fractures within the diamond that almost resemble a loose feather. With their whitish and transparent, practically invisible appearance, feather inclusions are only noticeable at some angles or when the light catches them a certain way. This type of inclusion occurs in almost every clarity grade (except flawless diamonds) and results from an imperfect carbon lattice structure.
- Bearding & Graining
Graining or bearding is a more severe type of inclusion that occurs on lower-clarity diamonds as the result of irregular crystal growth during the stone’s formation. Appearing internally and externally, graining inclusions have a slightly hazy and milky appearance that almost resembles soap suds or foam.
There are multiple types of graining, including coloured graining, reflective graining, surface graining, and transparent internal graining. While internal, coloured and transparent graining can affect the internal appearance and inner structure of the stone, structural graining affects the outside and is often confused with polish marks. In severe cases, diamond graining can also appear as creases or reflections. Because of its physical appearance, graining is sometimes visible to the naked eye as well as under magnification.
- Cloud
Cloud inclusions are arguably the most distinctive of all the different types of inclusions. They are essentially tiny clusters of white or greyish-white microscopic crystals that can be found within the stone. These inclusions are made up of minuscule crystals of diamond, graphite, or other minerals that were trapped inside the diamond as it formed deep within the Earth's mantle.
Cloud inclusions can vary in size, shape, and density and are most often seen in Included (I) grade diamonds. Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS) diamonds may have a faint cloud inclusion. Because of the physical characteristics of a cloud inclusion, they are not always noticeable, except when placed under magnification.
HOW IMPORTANT IS A DIAMOND'S CLARITY?
Diamond clarity is important because it directly affects the diamond's brilliance and sparkle, two of the most desirable qualities in a diamond. The fewer and smaller the imperfections are, the higher the diamond's clarity grade will be. A diamond with a higher clarity grade will be more valuable and durable, and it will have a better visual appearance. Therefore, diamond clarity is an essential factor to consider when evaluating the overall quality and value of a diamond. If sparkle is important, then diamond clarity should be an essential factor to consider when evaluating the overall quality and value of a diamond.
When choosing a diamond, you should also consider the cut, carat weight and colour of the diamond, which also determine overall diamond quality.
With that said, if there are other factors that are more important to you such as the diamond’s cut, colour and carat size as well as the price, clarity doesn’t have to be the be-all-end-all of your diamond buying experience. At the end of the day, a diamond is still a diamond and it is still going to be beautiful. And while a slightly included (SI) diamond may not have a sparkle as big as an internally flawless (IF) stone, the feeling of owning one of these beautiful stones often triumphs that. In fact, some even regard inclusions as the diamond’s birthmark and are therefore unique.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best diamond clarity?
A flawless (FL) diamond is a stunning diamond of the highest quality, however, it is indistinguishable by the naked eye from a Very Slightly Included (VS1) diamond. The best diamond clarity depends on the purpose of the jewellery the diamond is set within. Adiamond ring for daily wearmay provide best value at a lower clarity grade, with the cut, colour and carat size you desire.
Does clarity in diamonds matter?
Diamond clarity is a measure of how effectively the light passes through a diamond to make it sparkle and shine. To the naked eye, diamonds of clarity higher than Slightly Included (SI) will look similar in clarity, so it depends on what is most important to the wearer or buyer. The shape of the cut, colour and carat size are equally important in defining the look and value of a diamond.
How are diamonds graded for clarity?
Diamonds are graded for clarity by an experienced gemmologist using a 10x magnification microscope. The diamond is first categorised into one of six categories, then graded into one of 11 grades. A certificate is issued at the end of the process that stays with the diamond when it is shaped into jewellery.
