Diamond Colour Guide

When browsing the finely-polished cabinets of your local jewellery store or exploring engagement rings on Pinterest, the first thing that is likely to catch your eye is a diamond's divine sparkle. This is, of course, followed closely second by its neat shape and then its brilliant lustre. And then, well, at least in the case of diamond rings, you may also notice their tremendous size. These are all factors that make a diamond stand out more than some of the other gemstones and there. And they are all courtesy of one or more of the four Cs; cut, colour, carat and clarity. Knowing your four Cs are key to making an informed purchase when adding to your jewellery collection. They not only affect how much you will spend on the product you are thinking about buying but also how it will retain its value over time. 

Despite each of the four Cs serving a very important role in your decision-making when buying jewellery. Some diamond experts put more emphasis on certain diamond qualities than others, particularly, diamond colour. While diamonds are typically portrayed as being white or colourless, diamond jewellery enthusiasts will be surprised to know that diamonds come in many different shades of the rainbow. Though, not all of their colour is immediately apparent to the naked eye. This means whether you are shopping for engagement rings, browsing for the perfect diamond forever piece or finding a gift for a very special loved one, you have a very important decision to make about diamond colour. 

So, why is the diamond colour so important exactly? Read on to find all that out and more in our diamond colour guide.

OVERVIEW:

  • Why Is The Diamond Colour Important?
  • What Is The Process Of Diamond Colour Grading?
  • Diamond Colour Chart
  • Fancy Coloured Diamonds

WHY IS THE DIAMOND COLOUR IMPORTANT?

The reason colour is such an essential part of choosing your diamond is that the colour of an individual stone can greatly affect its quality. Diamonds come in a wide range of colours, from completely colourless to light yellow or brown that often go unnoticed unless it is placed under magnification, with the most valuable diamonds being the ones with the least colour. A diamond's colour is determined by the presence of trace elements or structural defects in the crystal lattice, which can affect the way it interacts with light. The fewer colour-inducing impurities a diamond has, the more it will reflect and refract light, resulting in a brighter, more brilliant appearance. A diamond's colour can also significantly impact its value, with higher quality, colourless diamonds commanding a premium price.

This is because colourless diamonds are rarer and more difficult to find than diamonds with noticeable colour. Diamonds that exhibit a hint of yellow or brown are considered lower quality and are generally less valuable, In addition to affecting a diamond's value and quality, its colour can also impact its aesthetic appeal. A colourless diamond will appear brighter and more brilliant than a diamond with visible colour, making it more desirable for use in jewellery. Ultimately, the importance of a diamond's colour will depend on the individual's preferences and the purpose for which the stone is being used, whether it be for diamond engagement rings or as an occasional accessory. 

WHAT IS THE PROCESS OF DIAMOND COLOUR GRADING?

Diamond colour grading is a crucial step in determining the quality and value of a diamond. The process involves evaluating the presence of any colour in the diamond and assigning it a grade on a scale that ranges from D (colourless) to Z (light yellow or brown). The colour grading process is carried out by certified diamond graders who use specialised equipment to accurately determine the colour of the diamond. The diamond is examined in a controlled environment with specific lighting conditions to ensure accuracy. During the grading process, the stone will be compared to a set of master stones, that have been previously graded,  as a reference point for the stone's colour.

The grader evaluates the diamond and provides it with a colour grade based on its hue, saturation, and tone. Hue refers to the dominant colour in the diamond, while saturation refers to the intensity or strength of the colour. Tone refers to the overall lightness or darkness of the diamond. Once the grader has assessed the diamond's colour characteristics, they assign it a grade on the colour scale. Colour grading is an important part of the diamond buying and selling process, as it determines the diamond's value and ensures that buyers and sellers are getting a fair deal. It also ensures that the buyer is getting a diamond that aligns with their personal tastes. 

Diamond Colour Chart

The diamond colour chart is a visual representation of the diamond colour grading scale and industry standard that was developed by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). The chart is arranged in a series of rows and columns, with each box representing a specific colour grade. The top row of the chart shows the most valuable and desirable grades, ranging from D (colourless) to F (near colourless) and M (faintly coloured). As you move down the chart, the grades become increasingly yellow or brown, with the bottom row showing the least desirable grades, ranging from S to Z. A diamond colour chart is a handy tool for both diamond buyers and sellers, as it allows them to quickly and easily compare the colour grade of a diamond and determine its value.

Colourless Diamond Grades

The grades that rate the highest on the diamond colour chart are D, E and F-graded diamonds. These stones have little to no colour, even under magnification you would be hard-pressed to see any colour visible on their exterior. The diamonds that fall within this range are not only quite expensive but are also extremely rare. Diamonds that fall into this range (especially D-grade stones) often have a very distinct exterior that almost resembles a mirror or glass. The triangular pattern created by their facets will also be very clear. 

D Colour Diamonds: D-grade diamonds are the highest colour grade that one can buy. They have a stunning clear or white exterior that provides the stone with tremendous sparkle. D-grade diamonds are recognised as chemically and structurally perfect, naturally, this means that they are quite rare. So, if you are on the hunt for D-grade stones to set into a new pair of diamond stud earrings or a tennis bracelet they probably won’t come cheap. For perspective, a 1-carat brilliant round-cut D-grade diamond with an internally flawless (IF) would probably cost just under $20,000.

E Colour Diamonds: While E-graded diamonds are no D’s, they are certainly nothing to sneeze at either. Despite ranking second on the list, E-grade stones are still considered to be colourless. They may not necessarily have the icy and transparent appearance of a flawless D diamond, but if you were to stick them under a microscope their exterior is pretty much clear. In fact, the difference in colour between D and E-grade diamonds is so subtle that it requires the expert opinion of a gemologist and specialised laboratory equipment to be able to differentiate the two.

F Colour Diamonds: As is the case with the other two grades within this group, there is very little difference between F and E or D diamonds. If you were to hold all three stones up to the light and observe them, the chances are you would struggle to identify which is which as the difference is so subtle that you couldn’t tell with the naked eye. Where F diamonds do vary a lot from the others is that they don’t have that distinct icy hue that almost resembles a drop of water like D-grade diamonds do. 

Near Colourless Diamond Grades

G, H, I and J diamonds are all stones that fall into the nearly colourless category. While you may not see their slightly coloured hue with your naked eye, you may see it when placing them under 10x magnification. Despite their very subtle colour, near-colourless diamonds are the stones most often utilised by jewellers for everything from diamond engagement rings and diamond rings to diamond earrings and pendants, particularly G and I-graded stones. Not only do they give off a beautiful sparkle, but their price tag is a lot easier to digest than the eye-watering pricey D-grade stones. 

G Colour Diamonds: G-graded diamonds are the closest in this category to being practically colourless. Their nearly colourless hue is so subtle that gemologists will often require special laboratory equipment such as a DTC DiamondView, a Spectrophotometer, UV and LED lights or powerful magnifying equipment. Often jewellers will place a G-grade diamond next to colourless diamonds that have already been accessed in order to be able to differentiate. Shoppers that opt for a G-grade diamond over a D or even an E-grade diamond could be looking at saving at least 10-15% on the price.

H Colour Diamonds: H-grade diamonds are around 40% less expensive than high-quality D-grade diamonds. While they have the slightest tinge of yellow (not usually apparent to the naked eye), they are great value for money as their almost coloured hue is barely visible. This means that if you find an H-grade stone that ranks high in terms of clarity and is well-cut won’t look that different from a D-grade stone, to the naked eye at least. Much like G-grade diamonds, H-grade stones are also very popular among those keen on a stone that practically looks colourless from the onset. 

I  Colour Diamonds: Though they are one of the lower grades of the nearly colourless diamonds, I-grade diamonds are massively popular among shoppers. Much like its predecessors in this group, the slight yellow to brownish tinge on these stones isn’t immediately noticeable-especially under the naked eye and is likely you will need some magnifying equipment to be able to see it for yourself. People often assume that because I-graded diamonds are six places from the top that their colour isn’t good, however, this simply isn’t the case. In the right cut, an I-graded diamond can give the illusion of a colourless diamond thanks to its fluorescence. 

J Colour Diamonds: While their colour grade may not be the highest in their category, it does not necessarily mean that J-graded diamonds are not a good choice when selecting your diamond. J-graded stones are around 25% more affordable than their colourless and near-colourless counterparts. However, when selecting J-graded stones for diamond necklaces or any other kind of diamond accessory, be mindful of the diamond shape, cut quality and even the type of setting you choose for your diamond as these elements can make the appearance of colour more prominent. 

Faintly Coloured Diamond Grades

Faintly coloured diamonds are diamonds that exhibit a subtle hue of colour, usually pale shades of yellow or brown. These diamonds are graded on a colour scale that ranges from K to M (light yellow or brown). Faintly coloured diamonds typically fall in the K-M range of the colour scale, before leaning into significantly more coloured hues until they reach D which is the most coloured a stone can be before ranging into the full-coloured diamond territory. While some people may prefer the traditional white or colourless diamond, others appreciate the uniqueness and the charm of faintly coloured diamonds. Particularly champagne diamonds that have a very romantic quality to them. 

K Colour Diamonds: K-graded diamonds have a slightly noticeable yellow or brown tint and even though some people may prefer the traditional colourless diamond, K-graded diamonds can offer a unique and affordable option for those looking for a diamond with a bit of character and warmth. The tint in K-graded diamonds is barely noticeable to the naked eye, especially when masked by much brighter rose gold or yellow gold jewellery.  However, it is important to note that the tint can affect the value of the diamond, especially if the other three Cs aren't up to scratch. So, this is something you will have to consider before making your diamond purchase. 

L Colour Diamonds: Another type of stone that falls into the faintly-coloured diamond category is l-graded diamonds. L-graded diamonds have enough of a yellow tint to them that it can even be seen if you flip the stone around onto its head and view it from the sides. Some L-graded diamonds will even have a slight brownish tint to them that gives the stone an appearance that almost resembles a light cognac diamond. However, much like the other grades that fall into the faintly-coloured diamond group, the hue is so light that it can practically be hidden by the stone’s setting. 

M Colour Diamonds: As the lowest grade to fall under the faintly coloured diamond group, M-graded diamonds exhibit a noticeable yellow or brown tint. In fact, their coloured hue is so prominent that a well-trained eye may be able to spot it without the use of magnification. As a result, M-colour diamonds are often significantly cheaper than higher-graded diamonds and are a good option for shoppers looking for a diamond with a warmer hue. It's also important to note that a diamond's overall value is determined by a combination of factors, including its cut, clarity, and carat weight, in addition to its colour grade. This means that even if it does have a tinge of colour, it’s not necessarily a poor-quality diamond. 

Fancy Coloured Diamonds

Despite colourless diamonds generally requiring a more premium price tag, there are diamonds with bright and vivid hues such as pink, green, red, blue, orange or canary yellow that incur an even higher price tag than their colourless counterparts. These diamonds are known as fancy diamonds and are highly sought after, not only because of their rarity but because of their rich, vibrant and unique hues. Fancy-coloured diamonds are graded using an entirely different grading system than white diamonds, with intensity and hue being the primary factors that determine their value. The grading system ranges from faint to vivid, with the more intense colours being the most valuable. Among the different hues found in coloured diamonds is black diamonds. Black diamond jewellery is somewhat of an enigma due to its edgy and slightly unconventional appearance that has little-to-no sparkle and an exterior that almost resembles a black sapphire. 

Coloured diamonds are found all over the world, even in Australia where we are lauded for our bright yellow, champagne and cognac-coloured stones along with our stunning pink diamonds. Pink diamonds, in particular, are highly prized for their stunning beauty and rarity. Heralding from the Argyle Diamond Mine in Western Australia, pink Australian Diamonds are synonymous with luxury. Especially now that the Argyle mine which was responsible for 90% of the world’s pink diamond exports has been defunct since 2020. This has only made pink diamond jewellery even more valuable and scarce. Often set onto rose gold jewellery to complement its ultra-romantic hue, or on the more subtle white gold to help it stand out more, the unparalleled beauty of a pink-coloured stone is something that many diamond enthusiasts treasure for life. The same goes for the many other brilliant-coloured hues out there that each brings their own unique qualities to your look. Fancy-coloured diamonds are a true world treasure and will continue to captivate and inspire jewellery lovers for years to come.